Kushti is a form of wrestling popular in India, Pakistan, the Middle East and Asia.
In Dubai, Kushti is a wrestling event among mostly Indian and Pakistani expats. On Fridays during the winter season, it is often carried out in Deira, behind the old fish souq.
I decided to check it out one day and after some circling around Deira’s port area; and with the help of a very helpful taxi driver; I managed to find the spot where it all goes down. I was early and so I spent some time exploring the adjacent neighborhoods. Around sunset time, I noticed a man in his late 40s, wearing the traditional Pakistani Khaadi Kurta, a kind of oversized, knee long shirt with matching pants. He was pouring water from a big jug onto a sand pit that was surrounded by large stones and rocks, forming a circle of around 4 x 4 meter diameter.
I greeted him with ‘Selamualeikum paijan’ (peace be with you brother) and he greeted back. I asked him if I could watch the wrestle matches and he took me under his care for most of the event. Told me what I can do and what not. I bought a box of chilled water and offered it to him and the wrestlers. More and more people started showing up, taking up places around the makeshift arena. They all sat down around the circle. On the rocks or on the ground. When all the rocks and seating places were taken up, the remaining people stood in the back. A short time later, what I estimated to be around 200 people surrounded the place. I was in the center, among my new friend and the wrestlers.
My caretaker was both organizer and MC of the event. He started yelling all sorts of stuff into the crowd and the crowd yelled back. At some point he yelled: Allahu Akbar (God is the greatest) and the entire crowd, in unison, screamed it back from the top of their lungs. A goosebump inducing scene. Slightly intimidating with me in the middle of it all. A fascinating spectacle.